Queens Necklace, Marine Drive
She sat serene under the colourful umbrella that brightens up a gloomy day at the Queen’s Necklace. Perhaps as a precaution against sudden heavy showers or to shut out the background noise of the developments and the innumerable people of Mumbai behind her. I sat next to her along the edge, listening to the sound of the waves crashing against the foot of the promenade with other strangers nearby – lovers, tourists, families, policemen, the haves and the have nots. There's a sense of calm that surrounds each of us on Marine Drive. Even now, 15 years after I last strolled here, it still remains the city’s best public space.
From the ocean’s perspective, it doesn't
matter if few new towers emerge. These boxes add little or no iconic value to
one of the busiest metropolises on earth. The successful long-lasting legacy of
this necklace promenade was conceived back in 1915, a brainchild of Sir Phiroze
Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, who was no urban planner or politician, but a
businessman. I wonder how he managed to get it done. There is a fundamental
need for public spaces such as this and less of vertically-stacked square
footage. But the poor and homeless probably hope for the opposite – roof over
their heads, a place to sleep at night.
Within five minutes after an abrupt shower – so typical of Mumbai – the granite edge is dry again and people immediately gather back here. With slick drain details and questionable construction tidiness of its curved edges which have been upgraded many times. The ample land and sea breeze provides much-needed fresh air to drive away the stench of fish cultivation in the city’s rear harbour. This smell is more overpowering now than I remember. One can never forget the 5 am trucks arriving to clean up the Fort area. They had the power to wake me up gasping for fresh air.
Gateway for India (left), Mutton Chap Masala, Olympyia(right)
However, the very same harbour is home to
joints such as Mahesh Lunch Home, Bade Miya and Olympia, offering delightful
local delicacies. These look exactly the same – run with the typical
half-polite-but-professional ‘Mumbaikar’ attitude. Should these have changed to
become more corporate? Why should they? They are set apart from the luxurious
five-star Taj Palace just around the corner and have survived the shooting in
2008. Could they have spruced up the place with new set of seats and tables?
Perhaps, yes. Should they have changed the menu? Absolutely not! Serving and
welcoming all levels of society, they hold on to their invention without giving
themselves away as corporate franchise. They bring to us the true essence of
Mumbai, working tirelessly day and night, to serve its people with unmatched
quality and most importantly, at reasonable prices.
Mumbai beats …. with a different pulse. After all these years, the waves of technology haven’t stolen the charm of its people. The city refuses to change, perhaps for its own good. People come here from far-off villages with the hope of achieving their dreams, to find success. There are many urban legends of people moving into this city without a home and going on to become great stars in its thriving film, financial and other industries.
Under this Colourful Umbrella of Hope, they soon realise that this path to success in contemporary society involves professional hustling, cutthroat competition and ruthless efficiency – moving them further away from calm and humanity. So, they come to the Marine drive to look far into the ocean in contemplation and hope, perhaps of another land, where quintessential needs are met more easily and where they can find time to love and be loved as humans again….
Lovers at Bay, Marine Drive
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