Under the Colourful Umbrella : Marine Drive, Mumbai

Public Promenade, Marine Drive, Mumbai

Under the colouful Umbrella, 

Queens Necklace, Marine Drive

She sat serene under the colourful umbrella that brightens up a gloomy day at the Queen’s Necklace. Perhaps as a precaution against sudden heavy showers or to shut out the background noise of the developments and the innumerable people of Mumbai behind her. I sat next to her along the edge, listening to the sound of the waves crashing against the foot of the promenade with other strangers nearby – lovers, tourists, families, policemen, the haves and the have nots. There's a sense of calm that surrounds each of us on Marine Drive. Even now, 15 years after I last strolled here, it still remains the city’s best public space.

The sound of the ocean relieves you of the city’s chaos, the disparity and poverty. People living under the poverty line were recognised in many proposals, with efforts to reorganise and improve the lives of hawkers and slum dwellers. Those have been thrown over the bridge, replaced by signs shouting ‘Don’t Encourage Hawkers!’ These minor changes give a glimpse of how the city’s powerful see the have-nots, even as plot after plot of land is giving way to yet another unimaginative, high-rise, square-foot package. However, there’s still some goodness left in all this. It is there in the city’s constant effort to keep this promenade neat and tidy with well-proportioned tree lines for everyone to enjoy. 

It feels Sacred.

The natural and the Un-Natural, Mumbai

From the ocean’s perspective, it doesn't matter if few new towers emerge. These boxes add little or no iconic value to one of the busiest metropolises on earth. The successful long-lasting legacy of this necklace promenade was conceived back in 1915, a brainchild of Sir Phiroze Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, who was no urban planner or politician, but a businessman. I wonder how he managed to get it done. There is a fundamental need for public spaces such as this and less of vertically-stacked square footage. But the poor and homeless probably hope for the opposite – roof over their heads, a place to sleep at night.

Within five minutes after an abrupt shower – so typical of Mumbai – the granite edge is dry again and people immediately gather back here. With slick drain details and questionable construction tidiness of its curved edges which have been upgraded many times. The ample land and sea breeze provides much-needed fresh air to drive away the stench of fish cultivation in the city’s rear harbour. This smell is more overpowering now than I remember. One can never forget the 5 am trucks arriving to clean up the Fort area. They had the power to wake me up gasping for fresh air.

 
                    Gateway for India (left), Mutton Chap Masala, Olympyia(right)

However, the very same harbour is home to joints such as Mahesh Lunch Home, Bade Miya and Olympia, offering delightful local delicacies. These look exactly the same – run with the typical half-polite-but-professional ‘Mumbaikar’ attitude. Should these have changed to become more corporate? Why should they? They are set apart from the luxurious five-star Taj Palace just around the corner and have survived the shooting in 2008. Could they have spruced up the place with new set of seats and tables? Perhaps, yes. Should they have changed the menu? Absolutely not! Serving and welcoming all levels of society, they hold on to their invention without giving themselves away as corporate franchise. They bring to us the true essence of Mumbai, working tirelessly day and night, to serve its people with unmatched quality and most importantly, at reasonable prices.

Mumbai beats …. with a different pulse. After all these years, the waves of technology haven’t stolen the charm of its people. The city refuses to change, perhaps for its own good. People come here from far-off villages with the hope of achieving their dreams, to find success. There are many urban legends of people moving into this city without a home and going on to become great stars in its thriving film, financial and other industries. 

Under this Colourful Umbrella of Hope, they soon realise that this path to success in contemporary society involves professional hustling, cutthroat competition and ruthless efficiency – moving them further away from calm and humanity. So, they come to the Marine drive to look far into the ocean in contemplation and hope, perhaps of another land, where quintessential needs are met more easily and where they can find time to love and be loved as humans again….

                                                    Lovers at Bay, Marine Drive

Subharthi Guha

27 Aug 2023

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